The John Lobb factory is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive "click" of the knife touching the cutting table. With traditional knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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