John Lobb shoemakers is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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